How To Groom Your Miniature Pinscher

The Miniature Pinscher has a very short and glossy shedding coat that requires very low maintenance. Aside from regular brushing, the Miniature Pinscher should be bathed every three or four months. The ears should be cleaned once a week and the nails should be checked once every month to see if they need clipping.

Equipment needed to groom the Miniature Pinscher:

Hound Glove

Ear Powder (medicated)

Nail Clipper (scissors type)

Scissors

Lanolin Coat Conditioner

Chamois cloth

1. Brush the coat thoroughly with a hound glove.

2. Clean the ears by dusting the inside with medicated ear powder.

3. Cut the nails with a scissors-type nail clipper, removing only the tips of the nails to avoid cutting the quick.

4. Bathe and cage or towel dry.

5. Scissor the whiskers on the muzzle as well as any long hair over the eyes and on the face.

6. For a glossy coat, apply a lanolin coat conditioner by first putting a small amount on your hands and then rubbing it onto the coat. Use a chamois cloth to rub the coat to give it a shiny appearance.

Dog Bath Inventory & Choosing The Right Shampoo

Giving a dog a bath can be as simple as rinsing him down in a child’s swimming pool in the backyard during the summer, or as complex as a full-blown spa ritual, complete with bathing a harness and a bevy of fancy coat products designed to whiten, darken, brighten, do-tangle, shine, and leave your dog with a designer aroma to rival a fancy French perfume. However, there are many ways to make bathing easier, and many ways in which bathing makes subsequent grooming sessions easier, too.

Bathing Inventory Tools

Once your dog is completely brushed, combed, and tangle-free, he is ready for a bath. Now you must get ready, too, and that means preparing all the necessary equipment and supplies so that you can reach what you need when you need it. lf you put that dog in the bathtub under running water and then have to go in search of shampoo or a scrub brush, we all know what will happen: a jump, a shake, and you will be a left with a soaked bathroom and a wet dog bounding around the house.

To wash your dog, you will need some basic supplies: shampoo, conditioner, sponge, scrub brush, bath mat, a hand-held sprayer (or large cup for rinsing), a plastic apron for you to avoid getting wet, a nylon collar and leash (if your dog has a tendency to bolt away), and finally, a heavy towel

Choosing A Shampoo

With so many shampoos on the market, it’s not easy to decide which to use. Yet, for most breeds, a basic, all-purpose shampoo is fine. If you want your shampoo to do more than clean, you might also consider a specialty shampoo.

* Accentuate your dog’s coat color by choosing a shampoo made for white, black or red coats.

* Shampoos designed to deliver extra conditioning to long or curly coats can make post-bath grooming even easier.

* For wire-coated dogs, look for a shampoo designed to preserve the crisp texture of your dog’s coat.

* Many dogs have sensitive skin or eyes. A hypoallergenic shampoo can minimize sensitivity reactions to bathing.

* lf your dog already has a rash, allergies, itching, or other sensitive skin conditions, look for a medicated shampoo designed to treat your dog’s problem (your vet should be able to recommend a good medicated shampoo for your dog).

* Is it flea season? Then consider a shampoo containing a gentle anti-flea ingredient such as pyrethrin or limonene, or any of several natural botanicals designed to repel fleas, such as neem oil.

* If your dog has sensitive eyes then consider a “tear-less” shampoo.

How To Groom Your Poodle

Grooming and trimming your fluffy Poodle dog with those fancy haircuts we often see can take a lot of practice. Fortunately we have outlined a step-by-step system that will guide you through the process.

The first step is obtaining the proper equipment. You will only need a few items: a slicker brush, a steal comb, and ear powder (preferably medicated).

1. First clean the ears by clean the ears by dusting the inside with medicated ear powder and pull out any dead hair with your fingers. Cut the nails with a scissors-type nail clipper, removing only the tips of the nails so as not to cut the quick. And clip the feet with a #15 blade using an the ankle bone as your guideline. Using the corner of the blade, click up one side and then up the opposite side of each toe. Scoop the hair out from between the pads on the backs of the feet.

2. Clip the face with a #15 blade. Clip from the bottom of the ear up to the corner of the mouth. Using the same blade, clip under the eye and down the sides of the muzzle, and from the stop (between the eyes) to the tip of the nose. Stretch the lips back with your thumb to remove the hair around this area. If a mustache is preferred, leave the hair on the muzzle from just behind the corners of the mouth to the nose, clipping only from the stop down the muzzle to the nose, using the #15 blade.

3. Clip the tail with the #15 blade going against the grain on the top side and with the grain on the underside. The amount of hair clipped from the tail depends on Nail Clipper (scissors type).

4. Clip the stomach area (from the groin to the navel) with the #10 blade. To set the pattern on the body use either a #10 or a #7 blade. Clip from the base of the skull to the base of the tailed. With the same blade clip down the entire rear leg to 1/4 inch above the hock joint. Also clip on the inside of the leg down to the same point. Clip down the sides of the neck, using the same blade, to the elbow, and then to a line on the front leg even with the line at the hock joint on the rear leg. Clip on the inside of the leg down to the same line. Clip the rest of the body with the same blade, back, and chest going with the grain.

5. Brush the remaining hair on the legs with a slicker brush. Comb through the hair to make sure it is mat free. Bathe and dry. Use the fluff-dry method on the topknot, ears, and tail and leg pom-poms (bracelets).

6. Comb through the coat thoroughly after drying. Scissor around the cuffs on the legs to even them off. Tease the leg pom-poms (bracelets) and scissor them so that they appear round and fluffy. Scissor the front legs the same as the rear legs. Comb the head and ears. Tease the head with your comb.

Scissor the tail pom-pom so that it appears round and fluffy.

Special Care for Grooming Sensitive Skin

When grooming any type of breed, you have to be very careful not to injure the skin. Slicker brushes, clippers, and scissors can all cause serious injury to a dog’s skin. For dogs with sensitive skin, use tools lightly and take special care when grooming a dog with skin problems. Skin conditions are for a vet to deal with, and not for the groomer to try and solve. Skin problems that can be caused by or aggravated by grooming include the following:

Allergies: Many dogs develop allergies from food, external environmental sources, or inhaled substances. In dogs, allergies are most likely to show on the skin. The most common type of allergy in dogs is the flea allergy dermatitis, which is an allergic reaction to flea saliva. Allergies can develop as rashes, hives, severe itching, and/or baldness. Never brush over rashes or hives. If hair is tangled, work through gently with a comb. Allergies can trigger a nasty cycle as they cause itching, which causes scratching and licking, which causes more irritation. Even after the fleas are eliminated, the negative effects on a dog’s skin can last for a long time. Always consult your vet for any signs or symptoms of allergic reaction. Your vet can advise you about how to properly groom hair over these areas.

Brush Burn and Clipper Burn: These skin conditions are a direct result of grooming. Brush burn is caused by brushing too hard, damaging the skin. Clipper burn is a result of allowing a clipper to become too hot, which occurs with extended use, burning the dog. Not only can such grooming mishaps be prevented, but when they occur, they can also make future grooming sessions extremely difficult for both the groomer as well as the dogs.

Always Brush Gently: This is especially true with a wire slicker brush, which can be sharp. Short, gentle strokes are better than long, hard ones to work out tangles. When brushing vigorously down to the skin, use a natural bristle brush and save the slicker brush for working out mats. Also use caution with pin brushes.

Turn Off Clippers Frequently: Have spare blades handy when the blades you are using get too hot, or use a cooling spray for your clipper. Touch the clipper blade frequently to make sure it isn’t too hot. Never run clippers over sensitive areas, like the chin and neck more than twice, especially when using a #10 or #15 blade.

How To Properly Bath Your Dog

The rules on how often you should bathe your dog are different from one dog to the next. Various breeds as well as various types of coats determine how often the dog should be given a bath. For example, the Poodle should be bathed every four or six weeks. On the other hand, the Pointer can go three or four months between baths. Other breeds which have harsh long coats, such as the Pomeranian, Samoyed, and the Norwegian Elkhound require less frequent bathing because it tends to soften the coat. However, dogs that are kept in the house most of the time have to be bathed more frequently to keep them clean.

Bathing the dog is important in order to keep the coat and skin clean and healthy. The coat should always be brushed thoroughly before the bath. This will help to remove all dead hair and all mats from the coats of long-haired dogs.

The next step is to prepare the materials you are going to use before the bath. The following is a list of supplies you will need:

1. Shampoo (regular or special shampoos for conditioning, color, coat, etc.)

2. Bristle Brush

3. Sponge

4. Rubber Tub Mat

5. Two Thick Bath-size Towels

6. Chain and Choke (to secure dog)

7. Spray Hose

8. Cream Rinse (long-haired breeds with the exception of the Poodle and Terriers).

Always remember to secure your dog safely in the tub. A chain and choke is necessary for this, giving the dog about a foot and a half of slack. This will make sure that the dog cannot jump from the tub and injure himself. A rubber tub mat is also a good safety precaution.

Using a spray hose, wet the coat thoroughly with warm water. Next, apply the shampoo to the dog’s coat with a sponge, paying special attention to the ears, rectum area, and pads of the feet. These three areas are usually neglected by most groomers when bathing the dog. A small bristle brush may be used to scrub the head, ears, pads of the feet, and other extremely dirty areas of the coat. When the coat is thoroughly soaped and scrubbed, rinse it with warm water. When rinsing, place the thumb over the ear opening to keep water out of the ears. Also keep a hand over the eyes to prevent any soap from getting into them. Since every dog should have a double bath, repeat the soaping and rinsing process. On the last rinse be sure to get all of the soap out of the coat. Gently squeeze the hair on the legs, tail, ears, and all parts of the dog’s body with your hands to remove excess water. You must first towel dry before using a dryer.

Dog Grooming

Your dog’s skin is one of his most sensitive and easily damaged organs. If he develops a skin problem such as an allergy or a negative reaction to grooming products, his skin can initiate a cycle of other conditions that can be difficult to cure. Some breeds in particular have very sensitive skin that would require special care and handling. For example, if your dog has a white or light-colored coat and pink skin, he may be more sensitive to just about everything, from dry air and sun, to irritation from grooming products. In addition, dogs with short coats are more likely to have reactions to certain products. Other examples of skin disorders that can result from improper grooming are as follows:

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Hot Spots: Hot spots are moist, hot wound-like areas that develop rapidly and can be very painful. This type of skin problem may be caused by a variety of triggers such as fleas, allergies, irritants, infections, or lack of proper grooming. Hot spots build up and grow because the dog compulsively licks and scratches at the itchy, painful spots, making it increasingly worse until it becomes infected. Vets have to treat hot spots by clipping hair away to disinfect and treat the area. The dog will probably be treated for itching and may have to wear an “Elizabethan collar'’ in order to prevent the hot spots from becoming irritated while it heals.

Product Reactions: Some breeds are sensitive to certain products like shampoos, conditioners, coat sprays, or flea or tick control. If your dog has an inexplicable skin reaction, check if you have recently changed grooming products or food. If your dog has sensitive skin, you may want to try mild, hypoallergenic, and/or natural products containing skin-soothing ingredients. If you are not sure of which product to get, ask a vet for recommendation.

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Skin Diseases: Dogs can develop many different skin diseases, some inherited, some caused by environmental factors. Your vet should always address skin diseases in your dog and can advise you how to properly groom them. Whether relatively minor but inconvenient, such as greasy, scaly skin resulting from overactive sebaceous glands (called oily seborrhea), something cosmetic, like a disease that causes hair loss (like color mutant alopecia), or something potentially life-threatening, like skin cancer, skin disease in dogs must be treated immediately.

Skin Infections: Skin infections can be caused by bacteria introduced into a wound, either by unsanitary conditions, or by poor grooming. From impetigo, which is common in puppies, skin-fold pyoderma which is common in loose-skinned breeds like Chinese Sharpei, to abscesses of uncertain origin, skin infections should be treated with antibiotics, which your vet can prescribe. Never groom over an infected area. Hair should be cut or carefully clipped from the area in order for the infection can heal.

THE BASIC FACT ABOUT DOG TRAINING

The one basic fact in dog training is that the animal must always be rewarded if it performs correctly and punished if it performs incorrectly. This reward or punishment must be given immediately upon performance, so that the dog can directly associate them with the specific action. If too much time elapses between the action and the expression of reward or punishment, the animal will not associate them with the action. Reward is most often expressed by a kind word, a gentle pat on the head, or the feeding of a tidbit. Punishment is most often expressed by a harsh word, a sharp tug at the leash, or by grasping the animal by the scruff of the neck and letting it know in no uncertain terms that you disapprove. Disapproval also may be expressed by slapping the haunches of the animal with a folded newspaper. How­ever, this procedure often seems to cow the animal and tend to break its spirit, and for this reason it is not generally rec­ommended.

The idea behind this system of reward and punishment is that it seems to be the innate desire of the dog to please the master-to win his approval and to avoid his disapproval. If the master appreciates this fact, training rarely presents any special problem. All he essentially has to do is to approve those actions that he wants the dog to perform and to dis­approve those actions he does not want the dog to perform.

This requirement is not always as easy as it sounds. It is sometimes difficult to be rigidly consistent, especially with a pet for whom the owner has a deep affection. It must never­theless be understood that the most obedient pet is the most desirable one, and any strain on the conscience that may be accompanied by persistently firm discipline will be more than compensated by the fullness of pleasure that will be derived from the completely obedient pet. And let us stop kidding ourselves: pets are acquired mainly to give the owner pleas­ure. When they are disobedient they cause the owner dis­pleasure. When they cause the owner displeasure, they de­stroy the essential purpose for which they were acquired. So it goes without saying that to enjoy your pet fully it is neces­sary to teach it obedience.

It must also be understood that the mind of the dog is not as well developed as the human mind. Therefore dogs are often slow in "catching on" to what the owner is trying to teach. It must also be borne in mind that the animal's power of concentration is limited; no more than half an hour a day should be devoted to training. Thus, especially at an early stage in training, an enormous amount of patience is neces­sary before the dog can be made to behave with any sem­blance of consistency. However, as the animal becomes in­creasingly obedient, it is amazing to what limits the training can extend. With patience and discipline the obedient pet can be made into a wonderful companion and can be the source of wholesome enjoyment.